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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s top eateries, one might expect well-known award-winning names. However, nestled high among these culinary titans is a simple salonu found in a outlying part of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

This little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. This accolade has made the family utterly astonished.

“I’m utterly astonished,” says the family member, pointing to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their humble restaurant achieving such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The little venue, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its original charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the fare, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can start at many times that figure.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate outside its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this gastronomic triumph.